These ruins are a potent legacy of war on the landscape

Constructed when Hitler's armies threatened the future, many of these scarred structures across northern Europe represented a last line of defense against invasion. This photographer spent five years documenting their last stand.

Sainte-Marguerite-sur-Mer, Upper Normandy, France, 2012: Marc WIlson: “On 19 August 1942, on the beach of Sainte-Marguerite-sur-Mer, a group from No 4 Commando under the command of Lord Lovat, landed with a mission to assault and destroy the German Hess battery above Varengeville, which could fire on the beach of Dieppe. They were successful, but the Dieppe raid ended in disaster for the Canadian and British troops. The monolith on the shingle beach was part of a blockhouse that originally stood on the cliff.”
BySimon Ingram
Photographs byMarc Wilson
May 6, 2020
12 min read

At a glance the view could be of any beach or cliff or headland, on the edge of any northern sea: cold and hard, with big horizons, rocks oiled with salt and moisture. Let that glance linger, though, and you start to see them. A slot in a cliff that’s a little too straight to be natural. Boulders on the beach that, with scrutiny, aren’t boulders at all. That line of rocks exposed at low tide spaced with tell-tale regularity, straight edges cut by human hand. 

(11 Otherworldly Pictures of Abandoned WWII Bunkers)

During the European conflict of World War Two, the waters around the British coastline were both its savior, and its warily-watched curse. Stealth attacks by sea could come from any direction, and not just across the 20-mile ribbon of the English Channel—which the Nazis never crossed, except by air, to bomb.

But as the war progressed, no outcome was certain. And in response to Germany's invasion of France in May 1940, as the shadow of Hitler’s armies began to fall closer to British shores, an array of unusual structures were built. 

Torcross, Devon, England 2011: Marc Wilson: “‘Exercise Tiger’ was a large-scale rehearsal by US troops for the D-Day landings. It took place in the area around Slapton Sands and Torcross, in Devon, in 1944, where today many defences such as the pillbox pictured here can still be found. Alerted by heavy open-radio traffic between the Allies, German E-boats on a reconnaissance mission sighted a convoy of eight landing ship tanks (LSTs) travelling back from Lyme Bay to Slapton Sands. Torpedoes fired by the German E-boats sunk three of the LSTs. More than 900 US soldiers and sailors died during the exercise.”
Brean Down, Somerset, England 2012. Marc Wilson: “Brean Down, a 19th-century Palmerston Fort 60 feet above sea level, was part of a chain of defences protecting the approaches to Bristol and Cardiff. Re-armed with a coastal artillery battery, it was also used as a test site for rockets and experimental weapons, such as torpedo decoys and the bouncing bomb designed by Barnes Wallis.”    
Abbot's Cliff, Kent, England 2010. Marc Wilson: “Separated from France by only 21 miles of sea, Kent has often been threatened by invasion. During WW2, new anti-invasion defences were built, such as those at Abbot’s Cliff between Dover and Folkestone. Coastal batteries were established and earlier ones were re-armed. Cross-Channel guns, two of them nicknamed Winnie and Pooh, were positioned on the cliffs at St Margaret’s near Dover as a response to the danger from German long-range guns in the Pas-de-Calais.”

Some are almost invisible. Others are singularly unsubtle and oppressive, breaking nature's organic lines with fantastical forms and impossible situations. Looking at their concrete walls, modern eyes may imagine dystopian barracks, crashed spacecraft or the entrance to some cloak-and-dagger lair.

But their true purpose was, for a generation, all-too dark: Searchlight emplacements, beach defenses, listening stations like upturned dinner plates, anti-tank blocks, ‘stop’ lines of concrete cubes, towering multi-story artillery towers, or squat bunkers with horizontal slots just tall enough for eyes to see out—and just wide enough to swing-fire a machine gun.

How three unlikely allies won World War Two. 

A physical legacy of war

When built these buildings were strategically situated. Now, most are approaching 80 years old, and redundant. Overrun by the landscape, they exhibit the signs of an elemental battering, with widening scars and deepening cracks, graffiti tattoos decades old. It is in every sense these structures’ last stand—before they, like those who remember using them for their intended use, vanish into memory. 

Houvig, Midtjylland, Denmark, 2014. Marc Wilson: “The Houvig stronghold, on the west coast of Jutland, had 50 bunkers and another 50 concrete defense structures. In 2008, 63 years after the end of the war, an intact bunker that had been entombed under the sands in Kryle, was uncovered following violent storms. One of the former German soldiers who had been stationed there, Gerhard Saalfeld, had come back to Denmark many times after the end of the war looking for 'his' bunker. When it was discovered, inside he found a shoe brush with his name engraved on it. He had been 17 years old when he had left it.”
Hayling Island, Hampshire, England 2013. Marc Wilson: “During an air raid in April 1941, Sinah Common, a decoy site on Hayling Island, attracted more than 200 German bombs and parachute mines intended for Portsmouth. Then, in late 1943 and early 1944, Hayling Island-based survey teams, trained as frogmen and canoeists, were taken by mini-submarines and dropped off in two-man collapsible canoes off the coast of Normandy. They recorded every detail of possible landing sites and assault areas, and information about the German enemy defenses. These commandos returned on D-Day, when they guided the Allied ships to the landing beaches.”
Bamburgh, Northumberland, England 2013. Marc Wilson: “RAF Bamburgh gave early warning of enemy raids approaching the north of England. A tidal surge in December 2013 at Bamburgh uncovered a long-buried pillbox in the sand dunes—part of a long chain of coastal defensive sites including pillboxes, gun emplacements, anti-tank blocks and a radar station. I rushed up there as soon as I heard about it—but when I got to the location at first light the next morning, there were some human and dog footprints in the area already so I was not the first to see them.”

The Last Stand is the title of a photo study by British photographer Marc Wilson— whose book of the same name comprises a collection of images and essays focussed on documenting this legacy of the war on the landscape. It ranges from bullethole-sprayed bunkers of the Atlantikwall on the continental coast, to the British defenses the conflict itself never touched. 

 “My aim was to combine memories and the landscape,“ says Wilson. “An attempt to make a document of these locations at the time they were photographed. A time [2010-2015] that itself has become a past as both human and physical elements change these landscapes. That is important to me.”   

Lines in the landscape 

In Britain alone, thousands of these structures were built. In addition to the so-called coastal crust, the network of ‘pillboxes’ and obstructions that comprised the nation's hardened field defenses ran deep into the country as if punctuating a map of strategic arteries—along waterways, at airports, by bridges.

The many that remain chillingly recount a function that ran every stage of an invasion scenario—from troop training and early warning systems, to tactical defenses and gun emplacements for ground combat.

Lossiemouth, Scotland, 2011: “A line of defences ran along the Moray coastline between Cullen Bay and Findhorn Bay through the Lossie and Roseisle forests. Anti-tank blocks ran the full length of this part of the coast, forming a barrier with the pillboxes that were placed between them at regular intervals. Some of the defences were constructed by a Polish army engineer corps stationed in Scotland. Kazimierz Durkacz, a medical student who joined the Polish forces, wrote: “At first, we used wood to make the moulds for the large concrete blocks and then a combination of corrugated iron and wood... I remember mixing concrete with a shovel.””
Dengie peninsula, Essex, England 2011. Marc Wilson: “In the eventuality of a German landing, Burnham-on-Crouch on the Dengie peninsula would have offered a short and undefended passage to London, by-passing the defences of the Thames and the Medway. This fortified minefield observation and control tower—a two-storey hexagonal tower, ten metres high, surmounted by a cupola—was built on the edge of an open field adjacent to the sea wall, in order to control the estuary minefield that defended the River Crouch.” 

Since then, the elements—as well as human encroachments—have waged war, particularly on the coastlines. But however caught between land and sea, or structure and rubble, these almost uniformly unappealing constructions retain a power, and a memory of a time when nobody's future was certain.  

“It was always meant to be more than a simple photographic recording of the structure alone,” Wilson says. “Rather one that combined the elements of the object, the landscape and time to provide a key to unlock the stories behind.”

Beginning with a test run of images shot on the eroding, sea-battered Norfolk coast in 2010, Wilson began researching and visiting locations to photograph. These were not just around Britain, but on the facing edges of the European mainland from Norway and Denmark to Belgium and France, down as far south as the Franco-Spanish border. Once decided on a location and composition, he would decide on a suitable time of day and tide height, and photograph it “in a fairly rigid manner.”

Wissant, Nord-Pas-De-Calais, France. 2012. Marc Wilson: “Wissant means ‘white sand’ in Dutch (wit-zand). During WW2, the Germans believed the Allies would regard Wissant, the closest point on mainland Europe to the English coast, as an ideal beach for an invasion. Situated between Cap Gris Nez and Cap Blanc Nez, it was heavily fortified with enormous bunkers, blockhouses, minefields, an anti-tank wall and long-range guns that could reach the English coast. In 2013, these German defenses were removed by the local authorities.”  
Portland, Dorset, England 2011. Marc Wilson: “The Verne Battery was built in 1892 in a disused stone quarry on the Isle of Portland in Dorset as part of Britain’s coastal defences. Decommissioned in 1906, it was used after WW1 for storing field guns brought over from France, and during WW2 to house ammunition in preparation for the D-Day landings. It also became an AA (anti-aircraft artillery) battery. Thousands of gravestones were hewn from Portland Stone for the fallen Allied soldiers who died in both World Wars. It was also used to build the Cenotaph in Whitehall, [London].” 
Widemouth Bay, Cornwall, England 2011. Marc Wilson: “In 1944, the 2nd US Ranger Battalion, under the command of Lt Col James Earl Rudder, carried out training exercises near Widemouth Bay in north Cornwall, including climbing nearby steep sandstone cliffs. Their D-Day mission was to launch an attack to destroy the German battery above the sheer cliff of Pointe du Hoc in Normandy. This battery could direct its fire on both Utah and Omaha, the two D-Day beaches on which the Americans were to land, and so needed to be disabled.” 

Wilson says he deliberately avoided naturally thrilling light to avoid distraction from the structure’s own atmospheric texture, describing the feelings in the pictures as “sombre emotions [that] needed no extra dramatic effect… all the drama was already there.” 

“It is those feelings that I try to communicate with my photographs,” he says. “Those of a past in the landscape, and a ‘now’ only possible because of what those who have gone before us fought for and sacrificed.”

While the bulk of the work is on British soil, Wilson chose not to focus on just one side of the conflict; many of the defenses he photographed were built by the aggressors. “It was always important for me to create a balanced discourse,” he says. “The human stories behind all the locations have equal importance, and viewers will be able to draw their own view and conclusions—and of course from the knowledge they bring to the work themselves.”  

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Rogaland, Norway, 2014. Marc Wilson: “Haugesund, on the west coast of Norway, was defended by the naval battery Bismarck. It comprised four 15-centimeter guns, which could each fire a one-ton shell per minute up to a distance of 17 kilometres. The Kriegsmarine (German navy) and Luftwaffe used their bases in Norway to attack the Allied Arctic convoys bound for Russia. In 1943, Allied commandos took part in a raid—Operation Checkmate—on German shipping near Haugesund. They used canoes and kayaks and attached limpet mines to the hulls of the ships. During that raid, a German minesweeper was sunk. While waiting to be picked up by a Royal Navy motor torpedo boat, the commandos were captured, taken to concentration camps in Germany and executed.”
Photograph by Marc Wilson

‘Markers in history’

Those who fought in the war itself are now dwindling in number; with the 75th anniversary of its end itself in the past, most veterans may never see the next major milestone. With this thread to living memory increasingly fragile, The Last Stand perhaps takes on added resonance—particularly as the environmental attrition of many of the coastlines on which they stand makes their continued existence temporary, at best. (Hear the last voices of World War II).

“My view is that this type of object is incredibly important in providing us with markers of our own history,” Wilson says. As the living tellers of these stories pass away, these objects, places and their photographic documents become ever more important—to provide that key to the human past of a land.”

The Last Stand by Marc Wilson is available now.

This story was adapted from the National Geographic U.K. website.