Pascal Maitre’s first, second, and third attempts to reach the colossal Buddha sculptures carved into the hillsides of the Bamiyan Valley in Afghanistan were futile. It was July 1996 and the French photographer was in Kabul on assignment for the magazine L’Express. The journey from Kabul to Bamiyan was little more than 100 miles, but each morning his driver canceled the trip, even as Maitre raised the pay.

As it turned out, armed groups were manning checkpoints along the route and four-wheel drives were in high demand. Afghans knew their cars would be seized as soon as they tried to pass. Finally, Maitre asked a friend for help. A few days later, he sailed through the checkpoints on a city bus