Is This Corner of East Anglia the U.K.'s Eeriest?

Carving a natural boundary between Norfolk and Suffolk, the River Waveney flows through some of the best of both counties, taking in peaceful water meadows, riverside pubs and wild swimming spots. The surrounding valley’s bleakly beautiful landscapes have also inspired a wealth of supernatural tales. Its folkloric heartland is Bungay. Long associated with the legendary hellhound Black Shuck, this charming market town raised an eyebrow or two when it was dubbed the ‘Satanist capital of the UK’ due to the number of devil worshippers reported in the 2021 national census.

Where Can I Uncover the Area’s Folklore?

Bungay’s St Mary’s Church is the site of one of the most famous Shuck stories. During a thunderstorm in 1577, a black dog with blazing red eyes is said to have burst through the doors and killed a man and boy from the congregation. St Mary’s churchyard also hosts the Druid’s Stone, a mysterious, gnarled rock that supposedly holds devil-raising powers, should you dare to dance around it 12 times. You’ll spy Shuck’s head on the hull of Big Dog Ferry. Hop aboard at Beccles Lido for a three-mile trip along the Waveney, docking at the Locks Inn. The community-owned pub sits on a riverbank in the reed-lined backwaters of Geldeston in the Norfolk Broads. It can be reached by following a stretch of the Angles Way, a 93-mile walking path that spans the entire Waveney Valley. Or cross on a boat from Beccles; sailings run from April to October. It’s a great spot to catch some folk music, sip ale by the fireside and soak up strange tales from the surrounding marshland. During the storytelling evenings held every third Thursday, you might hear of the Lantern Men — mysterious floating lights that lure unfortunate souls into dykes of unknown depth.

What’s the Local Food Scene Like?

On the up, thanks in large part to the abundance of regional produce and small businesses. Check out recently opened Baked patisserie for one of its signature pain reubens — half croissant, half pastrami sandwich. For something more substantial, Suffolk Stonehouse offers top-notch pizzas incorporating local ingredients, including Fen Farm Dairy’s esteemed Baron Bigod, a sumptuous brie de Meaux-style cheese now found on menus across the country. Stop by the dairy’s farmshop to try its famous raw milk, butter and yoghurt before paying a visit to the award-winning Flint Vineyard on the outskirts of Bungay. Offering tours and vine-side tastings, it’s best known for its sparkling, tank-fermented white charmat. As this is the heart of barley-growing country, you’re spoilt for choice when it comes to beer. Pick up a tipple from the shop at St Peter’s Brewery or head to Grain Brewery in Alburgh, which offers brewery tours and has an on-site taproom.

How About an Atmospheric Place to Stay?

In the village of Woodton on the Norfolk side of the river, you’ll find Albion Nights, an off-grid eco-retreat whose clutch of handmade cabins, fashioned from reclaimed wood, stand in a peaceful meadow. You may recognise Beech Cabin from Channel 4’s George Clarke’s Amazing Spaces. Soak in a roll-top tub under the stars or pay a visit to nearby Secret Sauna, open year-round. Here, you’ll have a serene pocket of the Waveney entirely to yourself, and you can let off steam in the wood-fired sauna before cooling off in the river, keeping an eye out for the resident otters and kingfishers. Elsewhere, Hippersons Boatyard in Beccles offers a selection of houseboats and glamping pods on the grassy banks of the Norfolk Broads. Stay at Albion Nights from £195 per night or Hipperson’s Boatyard from £210 per night. Minimum stays of two nights.