Some of the best cheese in the world is in Thailand—here's where to try it
In a country where most people are lactose intolerant, artisanal cheesemaking is thriving.
Humans have been eating cheese for around 10,000 years. The National Historic Cheesemaking Center explains that it's a culinary habit with no clear beginning, but the act of eating cheese did make its way to ancient Greek literature and Egyptian murals. It appears every civilization has had some affinity for it. Today, though, there is room for debate on who loves cheese the most.
In 2024, Mintel, a global market intelligence company, released a report ranking which nations import the most cheese and "which are the most interested in cheese." Its top countries were all the usual suspects, with the Netherlands, France, Belgium, and the United States leading the charge. However, Thailand is currently producing some seriously swoon-worthy cheese.
Yes, Thailand. A place where, according to a 2023 study published in the journal Plos On, an estimated 98.6 percent of people show lactase non-persistence, meaning they struggle to digest lactose and may experience symptoms of lactose intolerance.
While that may be a surprise to many, it simply feels like destiny to people like Jarutat Snidwongse Na Ayuthaya, the maker behind the Jartisann cheese brand out of Chiang Mai.
Because, according to his mentor, Na Ayuthaya had been a cheese maker in many lives before.
Na Ayuthaya isn't alone on this enlightened path of cheese. A growing number of artisanal producers are experimenting with different milk, bacterial cultures, and time-honored cheesemaking traditions across Thailand, including Rachanikorn “Kai” Srikong, a veterinarian and researcher who takes on a more scientific view of the cheese industry at Little Goat Farm.
In her work, Srikong realized many of these farms were suffering from farm management issues, so she took on the challenge of researching and learning all she could about how to care for dairy-producing animals, finding the right conditions, and figuring out how they could all maximize production. During this research, she fell so in love with the practice of farming that she opened her own farm, too.
After some trial and error, it now works like a well-oiled machine. She explained that she keeps exactly 30 goats as her data showed that to be the optimal number to produce enough milk for a profit without going over feed and other costs. However, her cheese-making took a bit more work than the goats.
"The first [cheese] I made, I thought, 'Yes, it is cheese,'" she says. "But I brought it to a chef, and the chef said, 'No, it's not cheese at all.'"
But she knew how to experiment in a lab and had a deeper-than-average understanding of how bacteria worked, so Srikong's cheese eventually got there, becoming a staple ingredient at Michelin-starred restaurants and high-end hotels across the country.
The lactose-intolerant puzzle
Thailand has never been what you'd consider a major dairy-consuming nation. According to a 2021 report by the Brazilian Embassy in Bangkok, the average Thai person consumes roughly 4.7 gallons (18 liters) of milk per year. To put that into perspective, in 2023, the average American consumed 15 gallons (56.78 liters) per year. While this is likely due in large part to the majority of the population being lactose intolerant, it's not the only reason.
The climate of Thailand — hot, humid, and prone to torrential rains — doesn't exactly favor the large-scale livestock operations needed for milk production. And traditional Thai cuisine, influenced by Indian, Portuguese, Chinese, and Malay flavors, relies heavily on coconut milk and fish sauce for richness and savory depth rather than dairy milk. Historically, rural communities that did keep cattle tended to raise them for labor and for meat, not for milking.
However, the nation experienced a shift in the mid-2000s, with Thailand significantly increasing the number of milk-producing animals over the last 15 years. This growth is partially thanks to the government kicking off a program promoting dairy consumption as a way to improve nutritional standards among children and because of a growing demand by expats. As the Brazilian Embassy's report added, Thailand's cheese market showed a 5.8 percent compound annual growth rate between 2016 and 2020 alone.
Also, lactose intolerance does not necessarily slam the door on cheese for good. Many traditional cheeses have low lactose content due to the fermentation process, including cheddar, Swiss, and blue cheese. During cheesemaking, cultures and enzymes break down much of the lactose, and further aging can reduce it even more in varietals like Parmesan.
So it all comes down to offering the right kind of cheese to a willing diner. And if you happen to be a Thai person who's remained reticent to try it, Na Ayuthaya suggests starting with his blue cheese.
The tourist demand and international influence
Millions of visitors from Europe, the United States, and Australia pass through Thailand each year, with the nation targeting between 36 and 39 million international visitors for 2025, aiming to break its record of 35 million visitors in 2024. It likely will do just that, thanks to its spotlight moment in the upcoming third season of The White Lotus, as the host of the MotoGP races and the SEA Games, along with perennial favorites like the Songkran Water Festival.
While all these tourists can and should dive head-first into the flavors that make Thailand unique, many will also fall back on favorites they know and love, like a cheesy slice of pizza. Only now, international hotel chains and high-end restaurants in Bangkok, Phuket, and Koh Samui are working with local cheese makers to ensure those Western bites are influenced by wholly Thai flavors.
Thai cheese producers to try
There are plenty of producers to have on your radar, but here are a few of the most readily available that give you a taste of something your palate may recognize, with a small Thai twist.
Jartisann: Jartisann is hands down the king of cheeses in Thailand. It crafts cheeses expats will recognize, but the star here is the San Paquanburie, a creamy cow's cheese that is reminiscent of a brie, which comes with the right floral notes for a refreshing bite.
Little Goat Farm: Like Jartisann, Little Goat Farm also has plenty of familiar favorites, including Le Chedi Brie, a creamy white cow's milk cheese that has a distinctly mushroom scent. But if you get the chance, go for the Pyea, a soft cheese covered in a rind made of safflower, flower tea, lotus pollen, and lavender.
DoFann Cheese: DoFann Cheese may be the most ideal for those with lactose intolerance, as its goat cheeses contain far less lactose than a cow's cheese. It's a producer that is particularly beloved for its simple, crumbly goat cheese that's ideal for topping just about anything.
Murrah Farm: If you're a fan of buffalo cheese, then Murrah is the producer for you. The company has been crafting buffalo cheeses since 2003, using its own organic milk as the base. Its mozzarella could easily top a pizza, though the producer suggests trying it wrapped "in wonton sheets and fried in hot oil for delicious fried cheese."
Here’s where you can taste it
Head to a night market: In Bangkok, the Or Tor Kor Market is a great place to start, or in Phuket, make your way to the Phuket Old Town Sunday Night Market. There are also plenty of smaller neighborhood markets punctuating the map where you may find local producers.
Find the nearest Sloane's: Sloane's is one of Thailand's best upscale markets, with locations across the country, including the Central Food Hall Ladprao and the Villa Market in Bangkok, Merchant Gourmet in Lamai, and the Rimping Supermarket in Chiang Mai. It not only sells several artisan cheeses, but it also sells all the charcuterie accouterments you'd need to make the perfect board.
Try your hotel's dining options: Jartisann and Little Goat Farm both supply their cheeses to some of the most renowned hotels in the country. You can find Jartisann cheeses in several of the Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts locations, along with the Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts (including Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui, the latest filming location for The White Lotus), Banyan Tree Hotels & Resorts, and Meliá Chiang Mai, among others.
Or make a reservation at these restaurants: Several big-name restaurants proudly proclaim they have Thai cheese on their menu, including the two-Michelin-starred Côte in Bangkok, which sources its cheese from Little Goat Farm, and two-Michelin-starred Le Normandie, which also uses Srikong's cheese. You can also try local cheeses at the 1921 House in Chiang Mai, which also regularly hosts wine and cheese nights, or go straight to a Vivin Grocery in Bangkok and dig into its Thai cheese buffet. There's also the new Say Cheese in Phuket, which stocks 10 types of Thai cheeses.
