When Visiting the San Juan Islands, Don't Sleep on Orcas
Home to Mount Constitution, the highest point in the archipelago, it is a paradise for hikers, bikers, kayakers, and whale watchers—and anyone who loves slow-paced time spent outdoors.
When my husband suggested a trip to Orcas Island, the largest of the San Juan Islands by land mass, I knew little of its rocky coasts and dense evergreen forests. I wasn’t alone in that: Washington residents make up more than half the annual tourists who visit this archipelago, which lies in the Salish Sea between their state’s mainland and Vancouver Island in Canada.
Visitors from outside the Evergreen State who do visit the San Juans are most likely to make a day trip to San Juan Island, the most populous of the islands and home to Friday Harbor, the region’s only incorporated town. But skipping Orcas is a mistake. It’s a place of sun-dappled hiking trails, kayak excursions to spot orca whales and other marine life, and abundant fresh seafood. And perhaps most importantly, it offers visitors a chance to slow down.
Quiet and peaceful, Orcas brims with outdoor activities. “It definitely has that kind of bohemian, almost hippie vibe,” says Amy Nesler, the Communications and Stewardship Manager for the San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau. Whether you want a strenuous bike ride or an easy walk in the woods—or just to shop for ceramics and enjoy an artisanal pizza with a glass of natural wine—there’s something here for everyone.”
Orcas Isn't Named for the Whales
“Even though we are on the map for whale watching, [the island’s name] is entirely coincidental,” says Nesler. It comes not from the beloved orcas who swim past the island’s shores but from Horcasitas, in honor of the former Viceroy of New Spain, now Mexico.
He commissioned the Spanish explorer Francisco de Eliza’s 1791 expedition to the island, where the crew encountered the Coast Salish People who had been living on Orcas for millennia. This etymology is the reason the pronunciation is “very much Or-kiss, not Or-cuss,” Nesler explains.
Hiking on Orcas
On the east side of the horseshoe-shaped island is Moran State Park, which has more than 40 miles of trails. Many ascend the peak of Mount Constitution, the highest in the San Juans. Those who make the strenuous trek will be rewarded with 360-degree views from the historic Mount Constitution Observation Tower that include Vancouver Island and the Cascade Mountains. If you’d prefer to skip the hike, you can also drive to the top.
In Obstruction Pass State Park, which sits at the southern right tip of the island’s inverted U, a short hike leads to a public beach, one of the few on the island. “I can't guarantee you'll have it to yourself, but it won't be crowded by any stretch,” Nesler says, “and it's got really beautiful views.” Turtleback Mountain Preserve, on Orcas's western side, is a popular hiking area with eight miles of trails and the second highest summit on the island.
Biking on Orcas
Nesler says she tells prospective cyclists, “I hope you’re training for the Tour de France.” The island is hilly and the shoulders are narrow, but biking here is still very popular. Many riders like to tackle the steep road from the entrance of Moran State Park to the top of Mount Constitution, which packs around 2,000 miles of vertical gain into about five miles.
Moran State Park has more than 30 miles of mountain biking trails, most of which are single-track. A shuttle is available to take riders to the summit. You can rent bikes (including e-bikes) from Wildlife Cycles in the village of Eastsound, which sits at the center of the island.
Kayaking on and Around Orcas
Outdoor Adventures, an operator located inside Moran State Park, rents kayaks and other boats, as well as stand-up paddleboards, for a leisurely, scenic ride around Cascade Lake. To reward you for your hard work, an on-site ice cream stand, the Sugar Shack, offers some of the most delicious cones in the San Juans.
To kayak on the waters of the Salish Sea, visit Shearwater Kayak Tours, on the island’s southwestern tip. The operator offers guided tours departing from Deer Harbor that glide past smaller nearby islands. Keep your eyes peeled for seals and bald eagles. Night tours immerse paddlers in the island’s bioluminescent wonders, as light-emitting plankton turn the waters beneath your oars an otherworldly blueish green.
Whale Watching on Orcas
Peak season for spotting orcas and humpback whales runs from April to October. Tour operators like Outer Island Excursions are so confident you’ll see a whale on your trip that they often offer a free return trip if you don’t.
Other Things to Do on Orcas
“People don't always realize that we're an arts hotspot,” Nesler says, noting that the island has more artists per capital than any other place in the state.
In Eastsound, you’ll find Forest Ceramic Co., a showcase for porcelain wares handcrafted on the island. Orcas Island Pottery, the oldest pottery studio in the Pacific Northwest, is on the east side of the island, while the artist co-op Orcas Artworks is near Moran State Park.
The island’s culinary scene is small but mighty. James Beard-nominated chefs helm the kitchens of both Houlme and Matia, in Eastsound. The former is known for its wood-fired sourdough-crust pizzas and small plates using locally sourced ingredients, while the latter serves a hyperseasonal six- or ten-course tasting menu.
Be sure to visit Brown Bear Baking in Eastsound for a croissant or pastry. There is often a line, but it is worth the wait.
How to Get to Orcas
Orcas Island is accessible by ferry, water taxi, or sea plane, though the vast majority of visitors will take the ferry. The ferry terminal to the San Juans is in Anacortes, Washington, about 90 miles north of Seattle. If you’re bringing a car aboard, you’ll need an advance reservation, but walk-ons and cyclists don’t need one. The gorgeous hourlong ride to the island is an integral part of the experience.
But if you’re in a hurry to get to Orcas, book a seaplane excursion with Kenmore Air. The journey from Seattle takes just over half an hour. My husband and I chose this option and hitchhiked around the island—still acceptable to do on Orcas—though renting a car will make it easier to get around. The island does have several car rental companies, including Orcas Island Car Rental.
