There's more to this English county than just Stonehenge

Wiltshire may well be the most mysterious county in England. It’s home to the country’s densest concentration of Neolithic remains — among them, the blockbuster that is Stonehenge — and a scattering of 13 giant white horses carved into hillsides and visible for miles around. Ask what they’re for or why they’re there and the response is commonly a shrug and a ‘who knows?’.

The attractions lose none of their appeal for being enigmatic, however. This is a largely rural county of chalkland hills, where mist clings to valley floors and lingers in woodlands long after the sun has risen — myth and fable seem in-built into the landscape. And when you’re done pondering the questions left to us by our ancient predecessors, there are inviting pubs to retreat to in pretty villages. Nothing dispels a sense of mysticism quicker than a pint of local ale enjoyed by the fireside.

What about its ancient sites?

Even if you’ve not been within a hundred miles of Stonehenge, you know exactly what it looks like, such is its fame. The circle of upright stones topped by horizontal stones was built on Salisbury Plain some 5,000 years ago, with some of the rock transported from Wales. Its purpose remains unclear, although the visitor centre puts forward some theories and has displays of local archaeological finds, including battle axes and arrowheads. Less famous — but arguably more impressive — is Avebury Stone Circle, 24 miles north. The largest stone circle in the world, Avebury was built 2850-2000 BCE and originally consisted of 600 stones – 76 remain visible. Wander the bank enclosing the site for a good overview.

Bringing us bang up to date, relatively speaking, is 16th-century Avebury Manor. The building is currently being refurbished but you can explore its gardens, home to a changing sculpture exhibition. Also in the village, with views over the stones, is the thatched Red Lion pub, an excellent spot for sausage and mash or shepherd’s pie. Fifteen miles west, Lacock is a ridiculously pretty place that’s been used as a filming location for adaptations including Downton Abbey, Wolf Hall and the Harry Potter films. After you’ve ambled streets lined with stone and timber-framed houses, call into Lacock Abbey, a country house built around a 13th-century nunnery. For a pit stop, have a pint in the 15th-century Sign of the Angel or coffee and cake at the Stables Cafe.

Dusk is a good time to venture to one of Wiltshire’s white horses. It’s thought the Westbury White Horse was cut into the chalk hillside in 1772, joining an Iron Age hill fort and Neolithic long barrow. It’s a popular place to watch the sunset.

Where’s a good place to stay?

Close to the Westbury White Horse, The Three Daggers in Egington is an excellent bet. There’s a terrace with a pizza oven, but inside by the fire is where you’ll want to be on a cold day. Alongside a self-catering cottage, there are three rooms, each with a cosy-country feel— blankets slung over chairs, botanical prints, and floral cushions piled high on tall beds. There’s a private guest lounge, too, with sofas, open fire and kitchen area. The pub downstairs is equally warm and welcoming — all stone floors, beamed ceilings and candelight — and its menu draws heavily on local, seasonal produce in dishes such as glazed pork belly, with many of the fruit and vegetables used sourced from its own farm. You could also consider a four-person safari tent, treehouse or cabin at Mill Farm Glamping.

Where can I buy local produce?

The Three Daggers’ farm shop, across the car park from the pub, stocks a bounty of local goods, ranging from pies and pastries to chilli sauces. It also has its own microbrewery within the same building, producing bitters, ales and stouts. For something stronger, head to Bluestone Vineyards, near Stonehenge. Open for tours and tastings, it produces sparkling whites and rosés, served with cheese and charcuterie. And for something stronger still, try Lacock Distillery, which produces dry gin using local botanicals.