
'La Saca': How Spain captures its wild horses of the marshlands
Every year, Andalusia's yegüerizos corral a rare breed of horses in a sacred event that blends centuries-old tradition with modern conservation.
Every year on June 26, as many as 1,000 Marismeño horses leave a UNESCO World Heritage Site where they live and enter the Andalusian town of Almonte. They come in on a thunder of hoofbeats, stirring up clouds of dust that rise to Almonte’s tiled roofs, and fill the air with the scent of their sweat and the smell of the marshlands.
The event has been happening for more than 500 years. Called La Saca de las Yeguas, the Roundup of the Mares, it takes place at the start of the dry season when mounted herdsmen known as yegüerizos (yeh-geh-REE-zohs) drive the horses out of the wilderness to Almonte’s livestock market. Horses that aren’t sold are returned to Doñana National Park, where the Guadalquivir River pours into the Atlantic Ocean, creating a labyrinth of wetlands that include lagoons, ponds and seasonal marshes called marismas that give the horses their name.
Public access into the park is controlled, but a decade ago, photographer Manuel Naranjo Martell began researching La Saca and eventually wrangled permission to join the yegüerizos in the Park. Martell’s new book of photos, Saca 1504, celebrates a breed whose direct ancestors may have been among the first horses brought to the Americas, and it honors the yegüerizos whose deft horsemanship preceded South America’s gauchos and the vaqueros and cowboys of North America.
The book captures what tourists to La Saca don’t usually see: the horses in their natural habitat galloping across coastal marshlands, the silhouettes of men on horseback in woodlands dappled with sunlight. The photos also showcase the land—one of dust and burning sun, ocean mists and sandy beaches covered by hoof prints that vanish with the tides.



Inside Spain’s largest wetland
The Guadalquivir River begins above 4,400 feet in the Sierra de Cazorla mountains and descends to the ocean, creating the largest estuary in the Gulf of Cadiz. Castilian nobles in the late Middle Ages favored the area as hunting grounds because of its abundance of wild boars.
Conservation efforts began in 1950, when biologist José Antonio Valverde and the 5th Marquis of Bonanza, Mauricio González Gordon, helped persuade the government of dictator Francisco Franco to abandon plans that would have drained the marshlands for farming. With assistance from the World Wildlife Fund, the park was established in 1969, and in 1994 it became a UNESCO World Heritage site, with over 130,000 acres.
The park hosts over 300 species of birds and is a critical flyway for those migrating between Africa and the European continent. It is also known for its population of Iberian Lynx, one of the world’s most endangered cats. The landscape is a collage of wetlands, woodlands, shifting dunes and fossilized sand cliffs. The climate swings from soaking winter floods to parched summers. It is a harsh environment in which Marismeños evolved into a hardy and resilient breed.





A horse of the marshes
Some believe Marismeños were among the horses that survived Christopher Columbus’ voyages to the Americas and that Hernan Cortés brought to the New World in the early 1500s.
In 2008, Spanish officials recognized Marismeño horses as an endangered indigenous breed—according to Equestrian magazine, “the Marismeño exhibits similarities to other closely related Iberian breeds, including the more famous Andalusian and Lusitano, and the lesser known Retuerta and Sorraia”—and in 2012 began a stud book with fewer than 1,000 mares and 20 stallions. The Marismeño horses are shorter than other breeds, with wide hooves adapted for the marismas. They have lived in the marshes for centuries, surviving without human intervention, except when locals needed them for farming and rounded them up—a practice formalized in 1504 by the Duke of Medina Sidonia.
As farming methods changed, the horses were no longer needed and became largely feral. Today, the free-grazing horses serve a different purpose. They keep vegetation inside the park in check and help reduce the risk of wildfires that are an increasing threat.
With their annual round-up, the yegüerizos are critical to the local government’s efforts to maintain a balanced population of roughly 1,500 horses in the park. They enter Doñana a night or two before they muster the horses. At dawn they wake from wherever they have slept—in a tent or under a tree with their saddle as a pillow. They put on flat-brimmed hats and tie kerchiefs around their necks that they pull over their noses when the horses kick up too much dust. Their only tool is a slender stick called a “chivata.”





For the next 12 to 16 hours, they ride through woods and over scrubland, mud flats and marshes to gather horses. Fathers, sons and grandfathers work alongside each other. They need stamina to pursue the horses, and experience, skill and patience to keep hundreds of them together and calm.
“They [the horses] can be incredibly fast and really nervous,” Martell says. “The younger yegüerizos want to run with the mares and go fast… But the older ones, they will go around the horses, not running, because if you start running, the mares will be much faster. So they have to do it slowly, little by little.” Their day ends at 9 or 10 pm after the last horses are corralled. The next morning the yegüerizos herd the horses to El Rocio, a 13th-century town on the edge of the park where a priest blesses the horses before they continue another 10 miles to reach Almonte.
Before entering Almonte, the yegüerizos make a final stop with the horses under the shade of pine trees, where their families meet them with lunch—cold salads with tuna, potatoes cooked with squid and watermelon.
After lunch, the yegüerizos herd the horses in groups toward the pens of the livestock market as bystanders crowd the streets to watch. Over the coming days, the yegüerizos rid the horses of parasites by trimming their manes and tails in a process known as la tusa. To control the horses’ impact on the Doñana ecosystem, some of the animals will be sold, including older horses and foals to be used for meat. The rest are freed back into the mists and watery wilderness of Doñana.



A photographer’s personal journey
Martell’s grandfather was born in Cañales, 40 miles from Almonte, but Martell did not know about La Saca until 2016, when someone suggested he see the event while he was finishing a book on bullfighters, Tarde de toros.
Martell went to La Saca, but he became consumed with a personal project, 2016, a book honoring his grandfather, who died that year after being diagnosed with pancreatic cancer. When Martell was finally able to join the yegüerizos inside the park a few years later, he was overwhelmed with emotion.
“When I got to Doñana, I was in a way having a contact with all the stories that my grandfather told me,” he says. “I started watching these elderly men working, horse-riding with their grandsons, fathers taking their sons there. It was a way look into my past and to my roots, to my father, to my grandfather.”



Now, Saca 1504 pays homage to the yegüerizos, the Marismeños and the land that shaped them. It reflects the evolution of the region from royal hunting grounds into a sanctuary for wildlife and the evolution of a semi-feral farm animal into a partner in conservation grazing. The stars are the yegüerizos, who support efforts to protect the land for future generations by plying centuries-old skills.
Martell began his work on Saca 1504 as his grandfather’s life ended, but he wanted the book to end with beginnings. One of his last photos shows a yegüerizo holding Martell’s new baby daughter.
There are also photos of horses’ hoof prints beside the ocean and images of a document created in the 1500s called Lienzo de Tlaxcala. It pictures Hernan Cortés astride a horse as he meets with the Tlaxcalans, who will help him to overthrow the Aztecs. Hoof prints cover their path.
“It’s probably one of the first representations of the horses [in America,]” Martell says. “Ending my work this way was recreating that trip the horses and this tradition of horse riding across the Atlantic. It went abroad, crossing the Atlantic Ocean, towards America. …My mother is from the States, so I wanted to have that crossing. A personal crossing, but also realizing that horses come from here, from Spain, and the tradition comes from here, from Spain.”
