ByDaniel StonePhotographs byNick KnightPublished January 6, 2021• 2 min readShareTweetEmailThis story appears in the February 2021 issue of National Geographic magazine.This content is Subscriber-ExclusiveYou must have a National Geographic subscription to explore this article.SUBSCRIBE NOWto get access to exclusive stories, plus a century of archives, photos, and videos. Already a subscriber?Sign In